Fashion
Dress Codes Decoded
By Gino de la Paz; Photographs by Dix1
What it says: Black Tie
What it means: Though Black Tie remains a rarity in the Philippines, high-end functions usually require it, as this kind of dressing is probably as formal as it gets. Purchase a tuxedo jacket either in its single- or double-breasted variety, with a peak lapel in satin or grosgrain. Go with what you like for the number of buttons, though a one-button tux remains the most elegant. Trousers should be plain, with a ribbon running down the seam. A black bow tie looks best with a French-cuffed white shirt and a strong collar. Patent leather shoes have been the norm for generations, though highly polished work Oxfords will do fine, too.
How to mix it up: A traditional tux will warm up to any texture on your chest so you can play around with a pleated white shirt, or take the theme literally and wear a black shirt with a long tie that's narrow and in high-quality silk. If your tuxedo or suit is off-the-rack, have it retrofitted to your body. Remember: An inexpensive suit will look just as elegant if you take the time to have it properly fitted and altered.
RYKIEL HOMME suit (P60,500), Rustan's Makati; HUGO BOSS shirt (about P8,000), Greenbelt 4; THOMAS NASH tie (P1,450), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall
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What it says: Formal 
What it means: Set the tone with dark suits in black, navy, or gray teamed with conservative shirts and ties. Mariko Jacinto, VIP services manager at Rustan's, says the number of buttons has no bearing on the formality of the suit. "It's a preference that suits one's body type. Our clients go for the two-button suit because it's not close to the neck and looks more relaxed," she says. For ties, think like a banker. "Neckties in conservative patterns, like stripes, and simple colors like blue and gray are good options," adds Jacinto.
How to mix it up: You can't go wrong with lace-up shoes, but if your suit is bundled with a few tweaks, like those from Rykiel Homme or Kenzo, a pair of trendy ankle boots works just as well.
SPRINGFIELD suit (P16,450), Rustan's Makati; THOMAS NASH tie (P1,450), and shirt (P1,650), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall; Traffic shoes (P2,878), Podium. This page shot at Benjarong Royal Thai restaurant at Dusit Hotel Nikko.
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What it says: Semi-formal 
What it means: A dark suit with or without a tie is considered semi-formal and to a certain extent, so is a shirt-and-tie combo worn without the corresponding jacket or blazer. In this case, the necktie is crucial. The standard is between 56 and 57 inches long and to look right, the tip of your tie should hit the middle of your belt buckle.
How to mix it up: If, say, you're attending a beach wedding, then you may lose the tie and go for a white linen suit. Also, maximize your office look by investing in suit parts. A colorful button-down goes well with flat-front suit pants, a plaque buckle belt and cap-toe leather shoes; it can definitely take you from the boardroom to the bar.
PAUL SMITH suit, shirt, cufflinks, and tie, Shangri-La Mall; Cole Haan shoes (P15,000), Glorietta 4
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What it says: Business 
What it means: If you want to be successful, dress like it. If you're a college grad going for a job interview, rock that dark suit. "It really depends what kind of job they're applying for. In general, a dark suit paired with either a white or baby blue shirt and plain tie is a fail-safe choice," shares fashion columnist and stylist Jenni Epperson. If you don't have a suit, however, a long-sleeved shirt, necktie, dark pants, and matching belt and shoes are equally acceptable. For those with more experience, Epperson insists on a business suit: "A power tie is essential but not one with hypnotic prints." Plain, striped or ties with geometric shapes will make you look more qualified.
How to mix it up: If the invite says business casual, you can either ditch the tie or the blazer. "It means you still have to look professional without looking too stiff," she explains.
RYKIEL HOMME suit (P54,500), Rustan's Makati; THOMAS NASH shirt (about P990), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall; KENNETH COLE briefcase (P17,500), Greenbelt 3
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What it says: Cocktails 
What it means: Cocktails mean complementing your date's outfit. Use this tried-and-true combo: a black sport coat and a black tie teamed with a crisp white button down and dark bootcut jeans.
How to mix it up: Carlo Rufino, brand manager of Paul Smith in the Philippines, recommends looking past the black and exploring tans and browns. "When it comes to shoes, brown adds a new dimension and is a nice alternative to black," he says. Likewise, he endorses mixing up textures and proportions. "It's nice to match tattered jeans with dressier lace-ups, or formal shirts with casual trousers. And if you're wearing a slim shirt, it's more creative to pair it with slouchier pants and vice-versa," he adds.
VAN HEUSEN sport coat (P5,500), Men's World at Glorietta 3; RED HERRING shirt (P2,150), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall; JEFF BANKS tie (P1,650), Debenhams; JOHN ROCHA belt (P1,750), Debenhams. This page shot at Fiesta San Miguel restaurant at Dusit Hotel Nikko.
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What it says: Casual 
What it means: Be inspired. Whether it's everyday, smart, or creative casual, they will all cross over at some point. Rufino suggests pairing long-sleeved button down shirts with slouchy trousers or jeans and classic sneakers. According to him, "The lived-in look is a bit more stylish." Investing in wardrobe staples like denim can be tricky so pay attention to the cut and wash. "I'd go for extreme washes, either raw-edged and dark or faded. Nothing in between. The crotch shouldn't be too low either," he shares. For shirts, ditch the loose and boxy ones as well; while the shoulder hem should fall, of course, on the shoulder, and not way below it. If you must untuck, keep the shirt above or within the crotch level.
How to mix it up: An outfit comprised of a graphic tee, T-shirt, jeans, and an unlined or washed cotton blazer is a can't-miss casual look. Exchange the graphic tee for a Henley for a more put-together option.
DIESEL blazer (P11,850), tee (P2,850), and belt (P4,450), Greenbelt 3