Special Report
Inner Space
For an adventure that’s truly off the beaten path, try going below ground
By Genie Ranada 
So you love to travel. You’re a bit of an adventurer as well; willing to put up with some discomfort to see what this gorgeous country of ours has to offer. You’ve taken rickety boats to hidden coves and beautiful (and resort-less) beaches, lugged backpacks or biked up lush mountains; maybe even taken diving lessons to explore the ocean’s depths. It seems you’ve gone everywhere. But what about a little introspection. By that, we mean going inside the earth. Caves are not a popular travel destination and that’s completely understandable. After all, it’s dark, wet, and muddy. There are bats, guano, snakes, spiders, and bugs. But there are also weird and wonderful formations: stalactites, stalagmites, towering spires, and glittering walls. There’re beaches, rivers, lakes, and hills—all underground. These are sights to see that very few have seen before. Most of all, it’s an experience you’re not likely to forget. All you need is a high tolerance for discomfort, a deep love for nature and discovering the unknown, and a good pair of trekking shoes. Your caving adventure will begin with a trip to Calbiga, Samar, where you’ll find the largest cave system in the Philippines: the Langun-Gobingob caves. The go-to guy for all your caving needs is Joni Bonifacio, sole proprietor of adventure tourism company Trexplore, who made it to the 2006 edition of the Lonely Planet travel guide to the Philippines. He’s described there as “entrepreneurial and engaging”—both true. May we also add that he’s a swell guy who’s crazy about caving, and who has been known to sing “It’s caving time…alleluia!” to the tune of “It’s Raining Men” when getting ready to cave. He can customize tour packages for you, whether you want to take a daytrip or go whole hog with the 3-day, 2-night stay. Costs can range from P3,000 to P9,000, which includes equipment like the carbide lamp helmet, protective overalls and life vests, as well as porters, transportation, permits, and guide fee. We brought our backpacks with three days worth of food, a camping cookset and stove, clothes, malongs, tarps, and sleeping pads. Getting to the cave is an hour-long trek through the forest. When we arrived at the mouth of the cave, Bonifacio briefed us on what to expect, and the do’s and don’ts. Basically the principles of Leave No Trace: take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time. We were to leave nothing behind: not even our, er, waste matter. That was to be brought back out with us in plastic bags and water bottles. Remember the high tolerance for discomfort we mentioned? It kicks in here.
We suited up in coveralls and carbide lamp helmets: basically hardhats with a little flame burning in front, that casts a wide circle of light. Then we descended down into the darkness, with a last look at the light. What followed were three days of trekking through a vast and amazing subterranean world. There were formations that looked like mushroom clouds, or giant foaming waves, frozen in mid-explosion. Some looked like corals, popcorn, angel wings, a snake’s spine. Some were pure white, as if covered in icing or snow, others glittered. There were towering spires, arches, terraces, and chandeliers. All made from stone; all hundreds of thousands of years in the making. Our heads spun, trying to see everything that fell within reach of our little flickering flames. The pictures just don’t do it any justice, nor would a string of words: majestic, magnificent, awesome, breathtaking. You must see it for yourself, if only for once in your life. Sure, there will be times when you’ll wonder what madness prompted you to spend three days in a cave. Times when you’ll want to tear the wet stinky coveralls from your equally soggy and tired body, and run screaming back out into the warm sunlight. Times when you’re wading knee-deep through bat poop, and you trip, and suddenly you’re arm-deep in guano as well. Times when you wake up and stare into the darkness, waiting for your eyes to adjust…and they never do, and you wonder if this is what it’s like to go blind, mad, or both. Then suddenly something you’ve never seen before will reveal itself in the light of your lamp, and all the hassle and discomfort will be forgotten. Now, if you’re still not convinced, at least try a daytrip. Bonifacio will take you to Jiabong Caves, which boasts of underground waterfalls, terraces, rivers, and an occasional snake or two, if you’re lucky. It ends, as always, with you walking out into the sunlight…and never taking it for granted again.
Getting There
Cebu Pacific offers flights to Calbayog from Manila every M-W-F. Calbiga, home of the Langun-Gobingob caves, is 92 km away, passing by Catbalogan, the capital of Samar and your homebase. Contact Joni Bonifacio for arrangements at: Landline: 063-055-2512301 Mobile numbers: 0919-294-3865 and 0905-323-3572. E-mail: trexplore@yahoo.com, or check out samartrexplore.multiply.com.
Getting Around
Getting to the the Langun-Gobingob caves is a ride away by habal-habal motorcycle, while Jiabong is one ride away by jeep.
Where to Stay
For nights not spent in a cave, there are numerous inns to stay at in Catbalogan at about P500 a night for a room.
What to bring
A waterproof camera or a camera in a waterproof case is a must. In fact, waterproof all your items, as it can get very wet inside the caves. You’ll need a good pair of trek shoes: look for a good set of lugs (the raised part of the sole that provides you with traction). Check out brands like Columbia, Merrell, The North Face, Keen, and Hi-Tec, at R.O.X. on Bonifacio High Street.
When to Go
Caving is year-round, but bad weather may make trekking to the caves difficult; avoid typhoon season.