Style
Dress Codes Decoded
Invites driving you nuts? We decipher these phrases so you'll be well prepared—and well turned-out—for any occasion
By Gino de la Paz; Photographs by Dix
1 What it says: Black Tie
What it means: Though Black Tie remains a rarity in the Philippines, high-end functions usually require it, as this kind of dressing is probably as formal as it gets. Purchase a tuxedo jacket either in its single- or double-breasted variety, with a peak lapel in satin or grosgrain. Go with what you like for the number of buttons, though a one-button tux remains the most elegant. Trousers should be plain, with a ribbon running down the seam. A black bow tie looks best with a French-cuffed white shirt and a strong collar. Patent leather shoes have been the norm for generations, though highly polished work Oxfords will do fine, too.
How to mix it up: A traditional tux will warm up to any texture on your chest so you can play around with a pleated white shirt, or take the theme literally and wear a black shirt with a long tie that's narrow and in high-quality silk. If your tuxedo or suit is off-the-rack, have it retrofitted to your body. Remember: An inexpensive suit will look just as elegant if you take the time to have it properly fitted and altered.
RYKIEL HOMME suit (P60,500), Rustan's Makati; HUGO BOSS shirt (about P8,000), Greenbelt 4; THOMAS NASH tie (P1,450), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall
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2 What it says: Formal
What it means: Set the tone with dark suits in black, navy, or gray teamed with conservative shirts and ties. Mariko Jacinto, VIP services manager at Rustan's, says the number of buttons has no bearing on the formality of the suit. "It's a preference that suits one's body type. Our clients go for the two-button suit because it's not close to the neck and looks more relaxed," she says. For ties, think like a banker. "Neckties in conservative patterns, like stripes, and simple colors like blue and gray are good options," adds Jacinto.
How to mix it up: You can't go wrong with lace-up shoes, but if your suit is bundled with a few tweaks, like those from Rykiel Homme or Kenzo, a pair of trendy ankle boots works just as well.
SPRINGFIELD suit (P16,450), Rustan's Makati; THOMAS NASH tie (P1,450), and shirt (P1,650), Debenhams at Shangri-La Mall; Traffic shoes (P2,878), Podium. This page shot at Benjarong Royal Thai restaurant at Dusit Hotel Nikko.
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3 What it says: Semi-formal
What it means: A dark suit with or without a tie is considered semi-formal and to a certain extent, so is a shirt-and-tie combo worn without the corresponding jacket or blazer. In this case, the necktie is crucial. The standard is between 56 and 57 inches long and to look right, the tip of your tie should hit the middle of your belt buckle.
How to mix it up: If, say, you're attending a beach wedding, then you may lose the tie and go for a white linen suit. Also, maximize your office look by investing in suit parts. A colorful button-down goes well with flat-front suit pants, a plaque buckle belt and cap-toe leather shoes; it can definitely take you from the boardroom to the bar.
PAUL SMITH suit, shirt, cufflinks, and tie, Shangri-La Mall; Cole Haan shoes (P15,000), Glorietta 4
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» Style archive
Men's Health Philippines - June 2006
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