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Saving face
Look into popular grooming ‘wisdom' and judge whether you were steered wrong

By Myron D.R. Mariano


Quick, what are your top grooming tricks? Almost assuredly, you'll give us a handful, and almost just as certainly, many of them don't actually work. Science may have debunked many old wives' tales (or matandang kasabihan in Filipino lore), but there will always be a saying or two that finds its way into our grooming regimens. And no doubt, "a friend of a friend" had "done it and swears that it works." Before you spot-treat your pimple with toothpaste or shave your balding hair in the hope that it'll grow thicker, read these nine look-your-best tips. We went to the people who know good grooming–dermatologists and trichologists (experts in the scientific study of hair)–to set the record straight.

HAIR "RULES"

What's said: Using styling products like gels, waxes, and pastes will cause your hair to fall.

The truth: Relax, it won't happen, even if you style your hair on a daily basis. "These products only coat the hair and are not absorbed into either the scalp or the hair shaft," says Michael Bernstein, a trichologist for Svenson Hair Center.

Your prescription: Even if you can leave hairstyling products on your hair overnight, don't anyway. They could dry your scalp and cause dandruff.

What's said: Shaving your hair causes it to grow back tougher and thicker.

The truth: A number of middle-aged men showing signs of balding are most guilty of this tip. They can't lose: Deal with hairlessness for a while, only to get a full head of hair back once it grows. Unfortunately, there's no truth to this, either. The stubble that appears after you've shaved does feel stronger. But this is only because the stubble itself is thicker. Your hair will turn out the in same density and length as before it was removed.

Your prescription: Try to stop fussing over your receding hairline and just shave your hair completely. Forty-two percent of women find bald hair to be rather sexy, according to a Men's Health US survey. Plus, imagine how inexpensive maintenance would be: Just P50 for monthly buzzes.

What's said: Wearing hats and helmets cause hair loss.

The truth: First things first, "[It] will not cause hair loss per se," says Bernstein. It may instead create traction alopecia—gradual hair loss caused by prolonged, tightly-pulled hairstyles. This condition is usually seen in motorbikers (since they often wear helmets) and people who wear tight hairstyles like braids, cornrows, and ponytails. "Traction alopecia is usually temporary, and the hair will grow back once you minimize wearing these types of headgear," assures Bernstein.

Your prescription: If you don't need them to be in your hair, don't wear them. Easy as that.

What's said: If baldness runs in the family, expect a shiny pate. Soon.

The truth: Genetics do play a major role in hair loss. But why sit and wait until your sink starts getting clogged with your hair before you take action? "Preventive care can often slow down or perhaps even prevent [it altogether]," says Bernstein.

Your prescription: Visit Svenson International (call 892-4247 for a hair care center nearest you) and talk to their trichologists regarding treatments you can do if you're already showing signs of balding.

SKIN "RULES"

What's said: Eating chocolate and nuts causes acne

The truth: "No book in dermatology definitively links the two," says Mary Ann Abesamis, MD, fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society and head dermatologist of Blooming Skin & Cosmetic Surgery Center (ESNA building, 30 Timog avenue, Quezon City; 376-5433). But this isn't a free pass for you to indulge. An allergic reaction from consumption of certain food products (nuts and chocolates included) can look like pimples—which might explain why people thought of them as causes.

Your prescription: Identify suspect foods by process of elimination. Start with both chocolate and nuts. See if your reduced intake helps with your sebum production (how oily your face gets in the afternoon) and how quickly a pimple heals.

What's said: Once you're scarred by acne, you're scarred for life.

The truth: Well, this one has some truth to it. Just like a scar anywhere in your body, when the dermis–or the deeper layer of skin–is damaged, it will be difficult, if not impossible, for the skin to repair the damaged area. All hope is not lost, however. Advances in technology now make it possible to reduce the scar's appearance.

Your prescription: "Treatments like Fraxel (a procedure where the dermis is intentionally wounded to promote healing), diamond peels, and fruit-based peels have been shown to be effective in minimizing the appearance of obvious scars," says Maricar S. Arceo-Cruz, MD, associate physician at Belo Medical Group Inc. Injecting Botox into a recent facial wound can also significantly improve the appearance of a future scar, according to a study from the Mayo Clinic.

What's said: Putting toothpaste in your zits heals them.

The truth: Menthol, an ingredient commonly found in most toothpastes, indeed speeds up the drying of acne. Baking soda, also present in toothpaste, is a good exfoliant. But these aren't the only ingredients in your tube, right? Any one of the remaining chemicals can counter the acne-reducing benefit of menthol and baking soda—and make the problem worse.

Your prescription: Try spot-treating (specifically targeting) your pimple with a creamy paste made from a mixture of baking soda and water for three days. (Start small—it stings.) If you don't notice a change in size, move to benzoyl peroxide (like PanOxyl 2.5%, P151.50, Mercury Drug) or salicylic acid preparations (like Mario Badescu drying lotion, P1,045, Rustans Essenses). Still there? Buy a tretinoin-based cream, like Retin-A (P181, Mercury Drug). These three products help remove the blockage in your pore, dry the inflammation, and kill the bacteria that have settled at the base of the follicle.

What's said: The only way to get rid of a pimple is by extraction.

The truth: You can breath a sigh of relief. Though extractions are by far the easiest way to get rid of the buggers, you may not have to endure the painful procedure just so you can get rid of unsightly acne. Dermatologists at Harvard have developed a device that may put an end to acne without the lancing. This gizmo, called a free-electron laser, can destroy parts of the oil-producing sebaceous glands without harming the skin's upper layers. Human trials are expected to begin by September.

Your prescription: Cross your fingers the people from Harvard find the device favorable. Until then, sit through the extraction procedure. What do the women in our life say—"Pain passes, but beauty remains?" Exactly.

What's said: The more you work out, the more you break out.

The truth: Working out has been shown to elevate your level of testosterone, which leads to your sebaceous glands producing more oil. If the oil secretions are kept unchecked, it can clog your pores. This is where the environment in the gym comes into play. "Bacteria from various sources–transported by your sweat (sweat alone is sterile), an unclean towel–can cause acne aggravation," says Dr. Arceo-Cruz. "Once again, it's not a direct cause."

Your prescription: Use paper towels in wiping off machines, not the one you use to wipe off sweat.




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Men's Health Philippines - July 2007




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